Things to know before microblading your eyebrows

Seattle’s premier brow artist, Kim Filion, explains the ins and outs of the procedure

A few years back it was all about lashes. While lash extensions are still riding the popularity train, we’re now seeing eyebrow microblading sweep the nation. This is an exciting new service to offer clients and for the public to enjoy, however there are some very real issues to consider before taking the plunge.

THE RISE OF MICROBLADING EYEBROWS

Just where did our obsession with eyebrows come from? The eyebrows, also known as the ‘frame to our eyes’, have played a vital role in our appearance. With each decade we’ve seen the styles change, from big and bushy in the 80s to pencil thin in the 90s and a more natural vibe in the 2000s.

With the rise of social media and the ‘selfie,’ it was no wonder that ‘brows on fleek’ became the slang term to use. And, what about those ‘Instagram Eyebrows?’

While ‘Instagram Eyebrows’ took a huge amount of time to draw on each morning, there was a new technique that would allow women to wake up with their brows ‘on fleek.’ Welcome, microblading!

Microblading originally came from Asia but made it’s big debut in the US in 2015. It involves an embroidery of small, precise strokes that mimic the effect of real hairs, and uses a special microblading pen to individually draw on the strokes – creating a very natural effect. This procedure is semi-permanent and can completely transform the eyes and face!

THE DO’s AND DON’Ts OF MICROBLADING

Microblading eyebrows is an incredible new procedure that offers a host of benefits that can really make a big difference in your appearance. However, it is a medical procedure that should not be taken lightly. A few tips to consider:

Research, Research, Research

This is probably the most important thing you can do before getting your eyebrows micro-bladed. There are many so-called professionals out there that are not licensed, are inexperienced, do not have good education or follow safety procedures.

Did you know that you can take a microblading course online and then go out and cut on people’s faces? Yes, it’s true. Others have watched how-to videos YouTube and promptly start performing the service on gullible clients.

Ask your technician where they were educated as well as certificates and licenses. How long have they been performing this procedure?

Kim Filion, owner of London Brows & Lashes, has trained in-person with the best-of-the-best in permanent makeup. She has traveled abroad and spent over $30,000 in advanced training with internationally acclaimed tattoo expert, Rita Romo.

You should NEVER look for the cheapest ‘deal’ for a permanent procedure like microblading (i.e. Groupon or Social Living). You will get what you pay for and chances are, severely disappointed. When it comes to your face, always choose quality and experience over anything else.

Here are some examples of what could happen…

Be sure to look at their portfolio of work and ask for references. What is their level of expertise in brow shaping and color theory?

Your eyebrows are a major focal point of your face and the shape and color is crucial to the overall success of your microblading procedure.

Kim is an expert in brow shaping and created the Design-a-Brow mapping system that she teaches to students at London Brows & Lashes. It is not a one-size-fits-all approach and therefore each client receives individually shaped brows that best suits their specific features. In addition, Kim has developed her own style of microblading that incorporates the latest techniques in semi-permanent makeup, including ombre and color-wash.

“I love what I do but it is very scary to see what goes on in the industry,” says Kim. “I have seen clients come in with major scarring due to a technician not understanding the correct depth to use when microblading. What should have been a beautiful brow is now a permanent fixture on their face that cannot be removed unless they undergo laser treatment.”

Be sure to do your prep work
Once you decide that microblading is right for you, it’s imperative to follow all pre-procedure instructions.

  1. 3 days before the procedure:
    1. Avoid using exfoliators like any skincare products containing glycolic acid, Retin A, Renova, and alpha hydroxy acids, since they may inflame the skin.
    2. Do not take aspirin, green tea, vitamin E, or any herbs
  2. Two days before the procedure:
    1. No alcohol, caffeine or salty foods.
    2. Do no tweeze or wax your eyebrows.

Microblading is NOT for everybody. Organ transplant recipients may not receive permanent brow enhancement. Pregnant, nursing mothers or diabetics are also not candidates.

Other issues to consider

If you have oily skin, microblading is also probably not for you as the strokes will blur and disappear.  An alternative option would be to have the ombre technique applied to your brows which gives a soft, feathery powdered effect.

Microblading is problematic for people with couperose, which is the visible presence of capillaries, as they tend to bleed more.l

If you have Botox, the waiting period is two months before having the procedure.

A doctor’s note is required for the following:

  • if you take blood thinners. The note must have the doctor’s approval for the procedure and permission to stop your blood thinner for 3 days prior to procedure.
  • if you take aspirin daily, you will need a note to stop taking aspirin 24 hours prior to procedure.
  • if you had surgery of any kind within the past 6 months, or will have over the next 6 months.

Be diligent about post-care after treatment

You are just as much in charge of the end results as your technician. If you don’t follow post-procedure recommendations you can significantly change the outcome.

First of all, you should be aware that microblading involves the initial treatment and then one or two follow-up visits to perfect the brow color and/or shape.

After the initial procedure, your brows will be much larger and darker. They will be about 30% lighter at the end of the healing process. With that said, you might not want to plan any major social events for the first 7-10 days while your brows heal and the outer layer of skin exfoliates.

That first week is when you should ‘baby’ the area as much as possible. Avoid washing with heavy duty cleaners but rather rinse with warm water and apply healing ointment regularly.

Avoid picking, peeling or scratching the area as this can pull the pigment and leave the area blotchy.

Other things to avoid during the 7-10 day healing period – swimming, tanning, direct sunlight, increased sweating and exercising.

If all goes well, you can expect beautiful semi-permanent eyebrows that will last for about 1-2 years before needing a touch-up.

If you’re interested in booking a microblading session with Seattle’s leading brow experts, London Brows & Lashes, please book online at www.LondonBrows.com or call us at 425-780-9505.

 

Posted: February 28, 2017 By: Comment: 2

All about that Addy

All about that Addy
Everything you need to know about London Brows & Lashes Adhesives

One of the most common questions we get at London Brows & Lashes has to do with our adhesives – how to store it to, which addy to use on clients and everything in between. So without further ado, here is everything you need to know about our adhesives.

The Basics

London Brows & Lashes has five different adhesives to choose from and are conveniently labeled with a user-friendly black, grey or white cap.

The black cap adhesives are made specifically for low humidity environments and come in both black and clear formula. On the flip-side, the grey cap adhesives are designed for high humidity. They also come in black or clear. And, our newest addition to the addy family is the sensitive adhesive that is labeled with a white cap.

  • Clear Adhesive
    Our clear adhesive is probably the most popular among lash artists and has garnered a cult following for its amazing retention and low irritation for clients. While it has a little bit of a learning curve, once you get the hang of it you’ll never use anything else!

    We offer both a high and low humidity option. The black cap (low humidity) favors between 18-40% humidity while the grey cap (high humidity) works best between 40-70%.

    Clear Addy Tips – Since there is no carbon in the formula, you only need to shake about 10 seconds before use. The addition of carbon is what interferes with retention which is why the clear addy excels above and beyond other adhesives.

    This addy works well for those that get irritated easily or have oily skin and lashes.

  • Black Adhesive
    The black adhesive is a basic that every lash artist has. It also comes in low and high humidity versions.

    The black cap (low humidity) is a fast drying product that relishes in a humidity between 28-53%. The grey cap (high humidity) works best at between 50-70%.

  • Sensitive Adhesive
    The sensitive adhesive is the newest offering by London Brows & Lashes. Like the clear adhesive, it also has no carbon which will reduce irritation significantly for clients. The big difference between the two addys is that the sensitive version has an even lower cyanoacrylate composition. While it does not have the same retention qualities of the other adhesives, it is a great alternative to those with low tolerance.

Choosing an Adhesive

Because working conditions are always changing, the best tip we give our clients is to utilize a hygrometer, a tool that measures humidity.  We keep both a black cap or grey cap bottle while we’re working and keep a close eye on the humidity reading. As the humidity changes, so does the addy we choose.

Q&A

How do I store my London Brows & Lashes adhesive?

Keep in a cool, dark area. Do no expose to a heater or steamer in working area. If you’re not going to be using it immediately, it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to six months safely or in the freezer for up to one year.

It does NOT have to be refrigerated between uses.

How long does it last after opening?

On average, about two months from the time of opening. If it’s opened all day long and used on many clients, we suggest changing it out every month for maximum retention.

How long do you shake the adhesive before using?
Because of the carbon in the black adhesive, it must be shaken for about 20 seconds. The clear addy, only 10 seconds.

What application method to use with London Brows & Lashes adhesive?

Only glue rings should be used with our addy as it dries so quick. No glue dots or jade stone.

Does the addy need burping?
No, it does not need to be burped. Just make sure to clean the infuser well with a paper towel.

Does the adhesive need to be cured with a nano mister?
Our clients can use a fan or nano mister. The nano mister does a better job to absorb vapors from around the client’s eyes. Use it for about 15 seconds and about 20cm above the head.

How long before getting lashes wet?
Advise clients to wait a full 24 hours before getting lashes wet.

Is it normal to see little clear/white marks on the lashes when using the clear adhesive?
Yes, this is a sign that you have used too much glue.

Why are lashes falling off while brushing after application?
A few things to consider to troubleshoot the problem….

    1. Is the client having a lash shed? This is common during certain times of the year.
    2. Are you using a jade stone or glue dot? We advise using a glue ring.
    3. How long does it take you to get to natural lash? Our addy dries in 2 seconds so the lash could be dry before you try placing it. In this case, try adding a bead or two of the addy to slow the curing process down.
    4. Are you changing glue every 30 minutes?
    5. Have the lashes been prepped correctly? We suggest using Fresh Start to properly cleanse lashes before application.
    6. Do you know the humidity of your environment and have the right adhesive?

  • As always, if you’re still having trouble, please contact us as soon as possible so we can assist you.

Best,

The London Brows & Lashes Team

 

Posted: February 6, 2017 By: Comment: 2

First Lash & Supply Store on the West Coast Opens in Seattle, WA

It’s no secret that the lash and brow industry has exploded in the last few years. But, traditional beauty supply stores do not offer lash and brow professionals the specific products they use on a daily basis such as lashes, adhesive, brow pigment for microblading procedures and much more. London Brows & Lashes is the first to open a professional beauty supply store specific to this growing niche market.

“The lash and brow business is a very fast-paced industry and we don’t always have time to order supplies online and wait to have them shipped,” explains Kim Filion, founder of London Brows & Lashes. “Not having the supplies you need when you need them can mean the difference between getting a new client or making a sale.”

London Brows and Lashes is now open for business at their new location in Mill Creek, Washington – 16030 Bothell Everett Hwy, Suite 100 Mill Creek, WA 98012.

Products offered include a full spectrum of their own brand name lashes and adhesives to create a variety of looks from natural classic to glamorous volume. Lashes come in B to L curl with various weights and lengths. Adhesives include high humidity, low humidity, sensitive and the cult favorite among lash artists, clear addy. In addition, London Brows & Lashes will offer a wide variety of professional lash tools as well as after-care products.

“We’re really excited to partner with Baltic Brows to provide the best pigments and tools for microblading brows as well,” said Kim. “The brow market is expanding so rapidly and many lash professionals are now adding this service.”

London Brows & Lashes is the exclusive supplier of Baltic Brows pigments and micro-blading supplies. The pigments are like no other on the market – created to achieve perfectly healed, crisp strokes that do no bleed. They can also be used for the newest technique in permanent makeup, ombre powdered brows.

“The last year has been amazing for London Brows and Lashes and has exceeded my wildest expectations. This year is gearing up to be even better because we are now offering a full menu of lash and brow services for our clients as well as a world-class supply store and training facility,” says Kim.

All supplies can be purchased in store or online at londonbrows.com

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Posted: February 2, 2017 By: Comment: 0

Top 5 things to consider before choosing a lash training program

The popularity of eyelash extensions has taken over the nation and with that comes a multitude of establishments offering various training programs – some are legit while others a waste of time and money.

To help weed out the good programs from the bad, London Brows & Lashes creator Kim Filion, offers these top five tips that should be considered before signing up for lash training:

1. Is the training company innovative and always looking to improve the industry?
Eyelash extensions have grown by leaps and bounds and you will only hurt yourself by training with a company that still demonstrates out-dated techniques. Is the company using 0.20 and 0.25 lashes or selling loose lash pots? This is a huge red flag. Run!

2. Do as much research on the teacher and class as possible.
Classes that are taught online or in just a few short hours are a big no-no. Lash extension training needs to be thorough and hands-on – a minimum of two full days. Also, be sure to check the student to teacher ratio with nothing more than 3-4 students per teacher. Do they teach volume? Are they accredited? Are you forced to buy their brand of lashes to stay certified?

3. Does the training emphasize the importance of eye health and safety?
An often overlooked area when it comes to lash training, but crucial. Without the proper knowledge, you risk exposing your clients to allergic reactions, infections, loss of natural lashes and more.

4. Check reviews and recommendations by your peers.
What better way to check out a training program than reading reviews and recommendations. Social media makes this part so much easier than in years past so be sure to do your due diligence.

5. What kind of continued support does the training offer?
Lash extension training is a learning process and if you are left on your own after training, this is a huge red flag. A good training program will offer continued support to help guide you to success.

Kim is a founding board member of the American Eyelash Association and teaches nationally with London Brows and Lashes.

Posted: February 1, 2017 By: Comment: 0

London Brows Adhesives, oh how I love you!

When I first started in this industry, I tried most of the lash adhesives out there. I felt frustrated with the results most of the time. The final straw came for me last summer, when I was using a highly regarded adhesive, and the lashes were sliding off the clients natural lashes as I was applying them. I had 12 clients that day. Feeling extremely frustrated I went on a search for the holy grail of lash adhesive. The result was that I discovered 2 adhesives that I was happy with. I asked my supplier to make me a clear version of the adhesive so that I could use it on brow extensions as well. I had a model come in for a set of coloured lashes, and I thought why not try the clear adhesive on the lashes. She had oily skin and was a 2 week fill. She came in a month laster and still had almost a full set of lashes! BINGO.

I personally LOVE the clear ADDY’s. Let me tell you why. Both the high and low humidity addys contain no carbon! One less ingredient to irritate your clients. The addition of carbon to adhesive makes it necessary to shake that bottle vigorously, and the carbon interferes with the adhesives retentive quality.

How do you choose the correct ADDY for yourself. Vital is the purchase of a hygrometer for the area you are working in. When choosing which ADDY I should use for my client, all I have to do is look at my hygrometer and pick either a black or grey cap addy depending on the reading.

Our black cap ADDY has 2 versions to choose from. As its winter here in Seattle, despite the rain, I have very little humidity in my studio. It can range anywhere from 18 – 45% on any given day, and changes from the morning to the late afternoon. I can start the day off at 18% and finish it off at 45%. How do I combat this fluctuation?
The clear black ADDY LOVES the lowest possible humidity. It works optimally (1-2 seconds) between 18-40%. As soon as the clear ADDY is not grabbing the natural lash instantly, I throw my glue ring out and reach for the regular black cap ADDY. Bingo I have instant grab again. For me, its as simple as this! So I ALWAYS have both black caps next to my side while I am working. Yes as soon as the season changes again, I will be switching over again.

In the summer my environment changes again. In the past I had a dehumidifier and humidifier next to me and one of them was constantly running. Both of these machines are in hibernation. I hated trying to control the area I was working in. Its as simple as your choice of adhesive. So in the summer I typically have one black cap addy and one grey cap addy next to me. The day can start off around 40% and its up to 60% in the afternoon. When the humidity changes, all I do, is switch out the ADDY in my glue ring. Viola!

The clear black cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 18-40% humidity.
The regular black cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 28-53% humidity.

The clear grey cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 58 -75% humidity.
The regular grey cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 52 – 70% humidity.

Trouble shooting issues.
1) If your lashes are falling off as you brush through them, you haven’t used enough adhesive. The ADDY is dry before you have placed the extension on the NL (natural lash).
2) If the ADDY is not grabbing instantly, maybe the lashes are not prepped correctly? I personally make all my clients wash their lashes at my basin using FRESH START, and thats it! No more prep for me.
3) If you ADDY is not grabbing instantly, are you sure you know what the humidity level is, and are you using the correct adhesive for the job?

These adhesives are for expert lash artists. If you cannot place a lash in position in 1-2 seconds, then you should use a little more ADDY so that you can see a little bubble on the lash. This will give you some more time to get the lash in position. I hope this has been helpful to you ladies out there.

My search continues for newer and better products all the time. This includes adhesives and its a constant search for the holy grail.

addy-duo-blackAddy-Duo-Grey

Posted: February 16, 2016 By: Comment: 5

Sensitive Clients using London Brows regular Clear ADDY Review

This is from a review done by a lash artist. Her client had developed a sensitivity when she came into see Terrell. It has been really encouraging to know that this client is NO longer sensitive and she can now use the regular Black cap ADDY.

“Until recently I didn’t think it was possible for a sensitive client to continue getting extensions. You have a reaction then BAM that’s it for you!
But I had luck with this procedure:
Client has other allergies so, when I recommended taking Flonase before the appointment, which blocks all histamine receptor sites, she responded with, “I already have a prescription one like that”.I didn’t catch the name of what she used, but Flonase-like.
Then I used London Brows clear addy grey cap, and I expect other clear ADDY’s would also work(?)
During the appointment I had the fan running behind my right shoulder to blow fumes away from us both.
I used saline on a doe-foot throughout to refresh the skin above the lash line and try to help remove any fumes from settling on her skin for too long.
After I was done and after checking for stickies, I rinsed her with saline – straight up poured it on and dabbed it off with lint free pad, then I had her go to the sink and rinse again.
She said she had a little swelling the next morning but no big deal for her. “And,” she said, “I didn’t lose a single extension on my pillow!” like this was a first. She used sensitive ADDY’s before.
I’m totally stoked! The clients who react are always the ones who love love love their lashes.
Now I have a better option for her And for me…I can use this adhesive on all clients, not just her – so I’m not using a whole bottle of sensitive on one client every two weeks…which means I get 6 or 8 uses from a whole bottle.
Win/Win! Love London Brows xxx

Posted: February 4, 2016 By: Comment: 0

London Brows Cocktail lash set and how to achieve the texture

My model Chloe has lovely strong natural lashes, that have 2-3 layers deep. I taped up her lashes to expose the bottom lashes and used the LB (London Brows) cocktail lashes in sizes 9-11-13. All the fans on the lower lashes were done using these longer lashes. On the not so healthy bottom lashes, I attached LB ellipse lashes in 12mm length. These ellipse lashes contributed to the texture I was hoping to achieve.

I did not use these longer lashes on the inner and outer 1/4. I left these alone so that I could use the shorter lashes in this area.

I removed the tape holding up the top lashes, and applied 7-9-11mm fans. Sometimes when making a fan in these lashes, all the lashes are short. I use these shorter fans on the inner most corners on the eye.

When I was going through the lash set, looking for any stickies, I would apply an ellipse lash to any lashes that had not been lashed yet. All in all I used around 15 ellipse lashes on each eye.

As you can see from the photos, I have done these lashes in various stages to demonstrate different looks for my clients. Some of my clients prefer a half volume look, compared to the fuller regular volume effect. By doing the one eye with full volume, and the other with the half volume, my clients are able to see which look they prefer.

I hope you ladies have fun creating your textured natural look.

Posted: January 26, 2016 By: Comment: 1

New Site

Welcome to our new site!

To celebrate, use coupon code 25off to receive a 25% discount off of all purchases, even training classes.  Retail items are excluded, offer good through August 14, 2015.

Posted: August 8, 2015 By: Comment: 1