London Brows Adhesives, oh how I love you!
When I first started in this industry, I tried most of the lash adhesives out there. I felt frustrated with the results most of the time. The final straw came for me last summer, when I was using a highly regarded adhesive, and the lashes were sliding off the clients natural lashes as I was applying them. I had 12 clients that day. Feeling extremely frustrated I went on a search for the holy grail of lash adhesive. The result was that I discovered 2 adhesives that I was happy with. I asked my supplier to make me a clear version of the adhesive so that I could use it on brow extensions as well. I had a model come in for a set of coloured lashes, and I thought why not try the clear adhesive on the lashes. She had oily skin and was a 2 week fill. She came in a month laster and still had almost a full set of lashes! BINGO.
I personally LOVE the clear ADDY’s. Let me tell you why. Both the high and low humidity addys contain no carbon! One less ingredient to irritate your clients. The addition of carbon to adhesive makes it necessary to shake that bottle vigorously, and the carbon interferes with the adhesives retentive quality.
How do you choose the correct ADDY for yourself. Vital is the purchase of a hygrometer for the area you are working in. When choosing which ADDY I should use for my client, all I have to do is look at my hygrometer and pick either a black or grey cap addy depending on the reading.
Our black cap ADDY has 2 versions to choose from. As its winter here in Seattle, despite the rain, I have very little humidity in my studio. It can range anywhere from 18 – 45% on any given day, and changes from the morning to the late afternoon. I can start the day off at 18% and finish it off at 45%. How do I combat this fluctuation?
The clear black ADDY LOVES the lowest possible humidity. It works optimally (1-2 seconds) between 18-40%. As soon as the clear ADDY is not grabbing the natural lash instantly, I throw my glue ring out and reach for the regular black cap ADDY. Bingo I have instant grab again. For me, its as simple as this! So I ALWAYS have both black caps next to my side while I am working. Yes as soon as the season changes again, I will be switching over again.
In the summer my environment changes again. In the past I had a dehumidifier and humidifier next to me and one of them was constantly running. Both of these machines are in hibernation. I hated trying to control the area I was working in. Its as simple as your choice of adhesive. So in the summer I typically have one black cap addy and one grey cap addy next to me. The day can start off around 40% and its up to 60% in the afternoon. When the humidity changes, all I do, is switch out the ADDY in my glue ring. Viola!
The clear black cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 18-40% humidity.
The regular black cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 28-53% humidity.
The clear grey cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 58 -75% humidity.
The regular grey cap works optimally (1-2 sec) between 52 – 70% humidity.
Trouble shooting issues.
1) If your lashes are falling off as you brush through them, you haven’t used enough adhesive. The ADDY is dry before you have placed the extension on the NL (natural lash).
2) If the ADDY is not grabbing instantly, maybe the lashes are not prepped correctly? I personally make all my clients wash their lashes at my basin using FRESH START, and thats it! No more prep for me.
3) If you ADDY is not grabbing instantly, are you sure you know what the humidity level is, and are you using the correct adhesive for the job?
These adhesives are for expert lash artists. If you cannot place a lash in position in 1-2 seconds, then you should use a little more ADDY so that you can see a little bubble on the lash. This will give you some more time to get the lash in position. I hope this has been helpful to you ladies out there.
My search continues for newer and better products all the time. This includes adhesives and its a constant search for the holy grail.